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You lease the equipment, not per kilowatt. Good thing is, if the SHTF, you still HAVE the equipment, hehe....
We use too much power to go completely solar (other than in an emergency situation).
 
You lease the equipment, not per kilowatt. Good thing is, if the SHTF, you still HAVE the equipment, hehe....
We use too much power to go completely solar (other than in an emergency situation).
Yes, but you still have to store it to use at night + the disconnect from the grid. With a large (leased) array that's a lot of batteries. I'll stick with my little backup system that I use every day & night.
 
weilding pre-shtf i can make vertually anything i want, giving theres enough scrap metal to go around, post-shtf, not much untill true homesteading begins and people quit looting and killing everything in sight. an ARC weilder uses 220 electricity, its kinda like hooking up battery cables except in the positive side you have your rod, then use the electricity to melt the rod. but post-shtf 220 will be hard to come by untill we make alternative electricity. However there is the MIG weilder that runs off of the standered 110 electricity (the regular plugs in a house) and runs wire feed instead of the rod, which i would recomend to beginners (you can buy them at harbor freight for around $100) the MIG is used for smaller weilds, like sheet metal or thin metals that an ARC would burn right through.
I have a miller welder, it's 225 amp ac/dc, the best thing about it is it is also a 10kw generator. The unit is called a bobcat. If you check craigslist you can find used ones really cheap, cheaper than just a generator alone. It's nice to be able to fabricate things when I want, and is great to power the house when needed. I think I paid about three thousand for it new, but you can find used ones for about 800 to 1000.
 
Your wisdom and knowledge is so valuable here. I think that must be the reason why it is so important for people to choose like minded people to partner with for the emergencies coming to us. It is the teamwork that will build what is needed to survive and then to rebuild too after any destruction.
No doubt, you can accomplish anything with a group that works together.
 
Yes, but you still have to store it to use at night + the disconnect from the grid. With a large (leased) array that's a lot of batteries. I'll stick with my little backup system that I use every day & night.

The batteries, etc. are ALL part of the leased equipment. The leasing company gets money from getting the tax rebates (as the owner of the equipment) from Uncle Sam, and from your monthly leasing fee.
 
no lease here 24 pannels at 280 watts each

Nice.

Leasing pros include: they install the latest and greatest, they maintain it all, come SHTF - still have it, and little to no upfront cost.

But, the cons are that you can't take advantage of the tax breaks, and depending on the lease fee, you may not be saving all that much in the final analysis.

For me, here in FL, since the power companies here are doing all they can to thwart it, it really isn't a very viable option to lease here, so if and when I add solar, it will be at my own expense and labor it seems.
 
i understand leasing i wouldnt lease so i bought and installed my self if i got to leave i can take with me on my trailor and yes i got all the tax breaks and rebates .i did the laber wasnt that hard since i sell my extra power to pg&e getting threw the permits and p.u.c was the longest part
 
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The main battery is about 10 pounds or so. the solar panels are about 2 pounds each.
the company is called goal zero. I picked the whole thing up for about $400.00. By going through Costco I saved some $200.00.
Save
 
14lbs about then hu? thats alot to carry when shtf, but a hell of a convenience. ie you can take an electric stove top and heat food, water etc. a hot bath will be nice in those days! Not to mention the various other things you can do with it.
but $400-$600 Thats a bit much for this mans pocket.
Hell with $400-$600 i can buy a nice gun!
too much for my pocket too but if you go google do it yourself you can build the same setup for pennies on the dollar which is what im going to do'
 
I am looking at less expensive, yet dependable routes. As much as I like Goal Zero, they are a bit pricey

gosh if its expensive for you guys, its much worse for us. a 400 USD retail for GZ Solar panels will set us back to 800 to 1000 SGD even though the exchange rate is only 1.3-1.4 even if you account shipping... seriously???

sigh~
 
gosh if its expensive for you guys, its much worse for us. a 400 USD retail for GZ Solar panels will set us back to 800 to 1000 SGD even though the exchange rate is only 1.3-1.4 even if you account shipping... seriously???

sigh~
Almost all the world's currency has taken a serious hit while the cost of goods and services continues to quickly rise
 
i used to work in a distribution company. Actually the reason is because of hedging. :) The price is set that way in case the USD returns to its acceptable historical high.

To show how much a distribution company earns.

When a product comes in, and the SRP is 10 USD. The realistic high is say 1.4 but historical high is 2.

So the SRP now becomes 20 SGD. Now the distributor gets the product at distributor price, nominally the margin is 30% before sales to a reseller. Reseller has a margin of 20%. This means the product cost to the distributor is actually about 5 USD. Lets assume shipping costs to be marginal, because shipping is nominally a couple of hundred USD for a minimum order of 10k USD shipping from China/Hong Kong to Singapore.

So the actual SRP is 14SGD for a product that is being sold for 20 SGD.

The distributor would sell his product to the reseller at about 16 SGD for his resellers, maybe 14 SGD for more loyal resellers.

His cost is 5.5 USD (inc Shipping) so his cost becomes 7.7 SGD for each product. His margin now becomes (14-7.7)/14 = 45%

a whopping 15% more because of the hedging. Good business right?
 
I know this is an old thread...

It takes at least 5 watts to be a battery minder on a small cars battery, it wont charge the battery but just prevent it from draining, it would take 10 to 15 watts for a large battery just to be a battery minder.

I always thought a 20 watt panel along with a battery charge (aa/aaa/c) that has a DC connector is a great place to start with solar, it would give you lots of batteries for lights/radios and if your laptop/phone has a DC charger you can charge it directly.

Generally speaking you would want a solar panel with twice the watts that the device says it needs to charge, such as if the phone charger says it needs 5w to charge you would want at least a 10 watt panel,

I once got a folding solar panel that put out the exact wattage my phone needed and it only worked when the sun was high with no clouds at all.

My current solar setup is 900 watts of solar panels with 600ah of deep cycle batteries, the older setup is 400 watts of panels with 400ah of battery.
 
It is best to start small with a solar system, as soon as you get it hooked up you see and understand the issues of a larger system,

A great place to start is a 20 to 50 watt solar panel, basically get the cheapest you can find since it wont matter as much in a small system, I dont like the flexible panels much since you will eventually wear out the wires that connect all the solar cells on the panel,

I like morningstar charge controllers, I know several that have them and I own a few of them,
Get a cheap one that handles 20 amps, it is a small one but still handles up to about 400 watts of panels.
The cheaper ones will be PWM controllers, the MPPT controllers dont make much sense until you have several hundred watts of panels or more and the MPPT controllers cost a lot more and only give 5% to 10% extra power in real world situations.

Just a single ~100 amp hour deep cycle battery will work well, is best to stay away from batteries that mention their CCA rating since they dont handle deep discharges very well due to their thinner lead plates.
If you already have an extra car battery it will work pretty good in the short term especially since this would be your first/experimental system.

A system this small can be carried outside in the day and brought back inside at night or even mounted on a dolly or wheeled table.
 
It is best to start small with a solar system, as soon as you get it hooked up you see and understand the issues of a larger system,

A great place to start is a 20 to 50 watt solar panel, basically get the cheapest you can find since it wont matter as much in a small system, I dont like the flexible panels much since you will eventually wear out the wires that connect all the solar cells on the panel,

I like morningstar charge controllers, I know several that have them and I own a few of them,
Get a cheap one that handles 20 amps, it is a small one but still handles up to about 400 watts of panels.
The cheaper ones will be PWM controllers, the MPPT controllers dont make much sense until you have several hundred watts of panels or more and the MPPT controllers cost a lot more and only give 5% to 10% extra power in real world situations.

Just a single ~100 amp hour deep cycle battery will work well, is best to stay away from batteries that mention their CCA rating since they dont handle deep discharges very well due to their thinner lead plates.
If you already have an extra car battery it will work pretty good in the short term especially since this would be your first/experimental system.

A system this small can be carried outside in the day and brought back inside at night or even mounted on a dolly or wheeled table.
We have been "playing" around with the stuff for the past 5 - 6 years and have learned some expencive lessons. When you use those 12Volt 100AmpH batteries keep them single, do not connect them in parralel,they really do work great, but in parralel the voltage regulater only "sees" the lowest battery and keeps on charging the whole system overcharging the rest of the batteries, we have switched over to the 2Volt 1000Amph batteries(6 en serie), they purr like kittens, they have been running all the electricity at the BOL for the past 3 years and no problems, we have a spare bank of 6 butt haven't touched it yet, just keep it topped up.
 
I know a few people that have fried batteries by having strings up to a dozen long, and as you said it damages the batteries at the ends by charging and discharging too much and the batteries in the middle never get used or even charged much, for my banks I use copper bus bars with cables that are all the same length so they all get charged and discharged at the same rate.
 

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