This weeks preps check-in

[Arcticdude]

The only problem i had with my plastic fuel cans, the one for gas became a little brittle after 10 years, ill stick with them cause they can take that extra 5lt and they cost a lot less over here. We used to store diesel in those big steel oil drums, all of them rusted through from the inside, so we swithced over to the plastic ones, just one recommendation, keep them away from direct sunlight.

If you're going to store diesel in steel drums you should coat the inside of the drum first with a corrosion inhibitor, or buy a lined tank. Then add a diesel fuel additive to the tank. Of course you always want to add a double filter and water separator to the system too.

 

[Maverick]

Silent Earth, what is it you don't like about the plastic fuel containers? I've never had a problem with them, so just curious? My big issue is making sure folks stick with putting just Diesel in the yellow containers, and regular gas in the red ones....

Out in the field here it's always better to have the metal cans, I have about 25 5gal safety cans that I'm in the process of replacing (with new metal safety cans), my cans are between 20 and 30 years old inside is good but the outside is weathered, I had problems with the plastic cans bursting at the seam if they got too warm so for the most part, out in the field I use metal though around the house I use plastic given I am constantly using the fuel in them but for storage I use metal. My metal cans held up better than my plastic cans by a big margin, I'm already having to replace my 10yr old plastic cans.

 

[jimLE]

it's been a long time since i seen one like those.and their worth their weight in gold..

 

[Arcticdude]

Out in the field here it's always better to have the metal cans, I have about 25 5gal safety cans that I'm in the process of replacing (with new metal safety cans), my cans are between 20 and 30 years old inside is good but the outside is weathered, I had problems with the plastic cans bursting at the seam if they got too warm so for the most part, out in the field I use metal though around the house I use plastic given I am constantly using the fuel in them but for storage I use metal. My metal cans held up better than my plastic cans by a big margin, I'm already having to replace my 10yr old plastic cans.

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Back when I was working I wouldn't let anyone though away the steel fuel cans. Instead I would have them steam clean the inside and coat with a rust inhibitor. For the outside I'd have them sandblasted and powder coated. If taken care of properly steel fuel cans should last a lifetime, and then some. Unlike the cheap plastic "safety" cans now days.
A big part of my preps is to buy tools and equipment that will outlast me. Plastic by design is made to be replaced periodically.

 

[Maverick]

My son-n-law has a sand blaster, he's going to use walnut shells to sandblast with, he's going to fill the cans half full of sand and put it on the shaker to clean the inside then use eastwood gas tank sealer kit to restore the inside, overall about $45 to restore the old cans worth saving. I've used white vinegar to remove simple rust from the inside of gas tanks works extremely good in fact I use white vinegar to clean the inside tanks of old coleman stoves and lanterns.

 

[Brent S]

Picked up the new American made generator on Thursday and tried to return the Chinese junk one. When I ordered the new genset they said I had 90 days to return the other one. Turns out they only have a 30 return policy on generators. Now I have two 8kw generators. Guess I'll repair it myself and keep it for backup. Next week the electrician will wire the new generator to the pump.
The concrete guy came out to estimate the cement needed for the garage. Looks like he'll need a pumper unit with a 100' extension to reach it.
And killed another rattlesnake this morning. This one was just a baby, the most dangerous kind.

My new shop was 1900.00 for the concrete. I got the fiber in it, bringing it close to 125.00 a yard. Ouch. Now the foundation and slab are done I'll order the framing pkg on Monday. I just picked the hottest time of the year to do this!

 

[Maverick]

If you're going to store diesel in steel drums you should coat the inside of the drum first with a corrosion inhibitor, or buy a lined tank. Then add a diesel fuel additive to the tank. Of course you always want to add a double filter and water separator to the system too.

I use PRI-D diesel stabilizer on all my diesel holding tanks and fuel tanks, it prevents even rust in metal tanks, I purchase about 1 gal of PRI-D every two years, 1 gal treats over 2000 gallons, if you treat the fuel in the holding tank once a year you can keep the fuel stable for years I'm talking 8 to 10 years. the same for gasoline except using PRI-G, it has been tested that it keeps gasoline stable for 12 years if treated once a year.

1 gal of PRI-D (diesel) is $80 treating over 2000 gallons, 32oz of PRI-G is $33 treating over 500 gallons, the PRI-D also works good for kerosene/aviation fuel. The PRI products is Military/NATO approved that far far exceeding Sta-Bil

 

[Arcticdude]

My new shop was 1900.00 for the concrete. I got the fiber in it, bringing it close to 125.00 a yard. Ouch. Now the foundation and slab are done I'll order the framing pkg on Monday. I just picked the hottest time of the year to do this!

I paid $149 per yard for concrete for the well house pad. I have to pay extra because of my location. It's a 60 mile trip for the truck. Since the shop is cut in the hillside it's going to take a 6' wall in the back tapering down towards the front. Should get the estimate next week.

 

[Arcticdude]

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[Arcticdude]

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[Brent S]

I paid $149 per yard for concrete for the well house pad. I have to pay extra because of my location. It's a 60 mile trip for the truck. Since the shop is cut in the hillside it's going to take a 6' wall in the back tapering down towards the front. Should get the estimate next week.

Ouch! The upside is concrete is permanent. No worries about sagging, termites or rotting. Expensive or not, at least you only do it once.

 

[Gazrok]

I use PRI-D diesel stabilizer on all my diesel holding tanks and fuel tanks, it prevents even rust in metal tanks, I purchase about 1 gal of PRI-D every two years, 1 gal treats over 2000 gallons, if you treat the fuel in the holding tank once a year you can keep the fuel stable for years I'm talking 8 to 10 years. the same for gasoline except using PRI-G, it has been tested that it keeps gasoline stable for 12 years if treated once a year.

1 gal of PRI-D (diesel) is $80 treating over 2000 gallons, 32oz of PRI-G is $33 treating over 500 gallons, the PRI-D also works good for kerosene/aviation fuel. The PRI products is Military/NATO approved that far far exceeding Sta-Bil

Nice. Great info!

 

[Arcticdude]

My new shop was 1900.00 for the concrete. I got the fiber in it, bringing it close to 125.00 a yard. Ouch. Now the foundation and slab are done I'll order the framing pkg on Monday. I just picked the hottest time of the year to do this!

Got the estimate for the concrete for my shop today; $8800 just for the installation of the concrete. Ouch.. Good thing I was sitting down for that. Still waiting for the rest of the estimate. Oh well, gotta have the shop. Looks like we'll be living in it this winter.

 

[jimLE]

Well,we been stopping at yard sales today.i not only bought some things,but so did mom,for a change.one thing i got,is a lil table for the sitting area..i also got a electric grain grinder..figure i can grind my own corn meal..

 

[Brent S]

Got the estimate for the concrete for my shop today; $8800 just for the installation of the concrete. Ouch.. Good thing I was sitting down for that. Still waiting for the rest of the estimate. Oh well, gotta have the shop. Looks like we'll be living in it this winter.

Ouch! We started putting up walls today. I like to build a section on the slab, and put the sheathing on it on the ground, then stand it in place. We got one end wall and half the back wall up today, but got a late start. I'm supposed to be on minimal duty right now per Drs. Instructions, but what are you gonna do! Anyways, I hope to have the walls up tomorrow, then will do the floor joists for the 2nd story. As long as the weather cooperates I hope to have it dried in by the end of next week. We'll see how I hold up!

 

[Arcticdude]

It's good that you have some help with some of your building projects Brent. I'd be doing more of the building myself but I'm here alone about 80% of the time. After doing the slab for the pump house I learned that I'm not a concrete guy, nor do I have any desire to learn about concrete. I just have the roof, insulation and siding to finish on the pump house. The electrician will be out next week to wire the generator. When that's all done I'll add some solar panels, battery bank and invertor to run some heat lamps for winter.

 

[Danil54grl]

You guys ever thought about using washout till you can do a concrete floor? Lots cheaper. . . We used it in the milk parlor and just laid down one of those big rubber mats found at Tractor Supply. It makes cleanup a breeze. Only bad thing about it is that it will need to be replaced over time.

 

[jimLE]

1st is a magic mill2 high speed flour mill,$10.00.2nd is a cookie jar$1.00.and 3rd is a table for the sitting area,$3.00.

 

[Arcticdude]

It's good that you have some help with some of your building projects Brent. I'd be doing more of the building myself but I'm here alone about 80% of the time. After doing the slab for the pump house I learned that I'm not a concrete guy, nor do I have any desire to learn about concrete. I just have the roof, insulation and siding to finish on the pump house. The electrician will be out next week to wire the generator. When that's all done I'll add some solar panels, battery bank and invertor to run a couple of heat lamps for winter.

Ouch! We started putting up walls today. I like to build a section on the slab, and put the sheathing on it on the ground, then stand it in place. We got one end wall and half the back wall up today, but got a late start. I'm supposed to be on minimal duty right now per Drs. Instructions, but what are you gonna do! Anyways, I hope to have the walls up tomorrow, then will do the floor joists for the 2nd story. As long as the weather cooperates I hope to have it dried in by the e

You guys ever thought about using washout till you can do a concrete floor? Lots cheaper. . . We used it in the milk parlor and just laid down one of those big rubber mats found at Tractor Supply. It makes cleanup a breeze. Only bad thing about it is that it will need to be replaced over time.

That's a good idea. But in my case most of the cost of concrete is in the walls, not the floor. I'm cutting in to a hillside so the back wall will be 6' high stepping down towards the front. I've also had to fill about 2-3' for the front of the building and driveway.

 

[Brent S]

It's good that you have some help with some of your building projects Brent. I'd be doing more of the building myself but I'm here alone about 80% of the time. After doing the slab for the pump house I learned that I'm not a concrete guy, nor do I have any desire to learn about concrete. I just have the roof, insulation and siding to finish on the pump house. The electrician will be out next week to wire the generator. When that's all done I'll add some solar panels, battery bank and invertor to run some heat lamps for winter.

We almost got the first floor walls done today. It won't be too much to finish tomorrow morning. It is nice having my son help, as this is really for him anyways. It sure would be nice to just hire someone, but not in the financial cards for me, so sweat equity is going to have to do. Here's a couple Picts of the progress.