Bees

[Robinjopo1]

They said we had a huge loss in our area last winter. The Spring so far is horrible for bees because we are having too much rain and it's messing with the blooms.

The bees aren't getting a good start. We are expecting bad weather here today. Strong winds, so I'm going to watch my hives since I have placed them on their "spot".

 

[Arcticdude]

AD, you have left my area of expertise! Using the words "bees should arrive" and "snow" are a combination I've never dealt with!

Are you getting a package or an established hive? And if 'established', is it 3,5,7... frames of bees? Established hives are more expensive but you have much better chances of them surviving.

When painting, make sure to paint the outside and NOT the inside of the hive body. Bees like to walk on wood, not paint. And make sure the hive sits high enough that their entrance will never get buried in snow (they will suffocate & die). And of course bears (I think we've discussed this).

Down here we're having the perfect Spring. Bees are going insane, even my tiny colonies are preparing to swarm. I joked with BK buddy yesterday to check his dead-outs, they may be swarming! (a dead-out is a colony that have died over winter). The key to a good Spring is to have nice long dry spells, then short heavy rains. Too dry and plants don't bloom. Too wet too often and the blooms do not dry and the bees can't get the nectar.

Yes, we're just going to paint the outside of the hive. We'll wait for a warm day above 45 first. The company the wife ordered the package bees from just gave a date range when they will ship the bees. It depends on their weather before they ship the bees.
Last year our finial snow storm was May 20th and first snow was last week of September.
The hive we got is a 10 frame. I plan to set it up about 18" off the ground. And will keep it dug out over winter. The bee hives will be in a fenced area to keep the bears out. Fortunately we don't have skunks to deal with around here.
This whole country around here is covered in wild flowers all spring and summer. I'm going to plant a few acres of alfalfa and clover in some meadows.
The wife would like to join a bee club but there aren't any in this area. Plus she's gone so much of the time.

 

[Robinjopo1]

Yes, we're just going to paint the outside of the hive. We'll wait for a warm day above 45 first. The company the wife ordered the package bees from just gave a date range when they will ship the bees. It depends on their weather before they ship the bees.
Last year our finial snow storm was May 20th and first snow was last week of September.
The hive we got is a 10 frame. I plan to set it up about 18" off the ground. And will keep it dug out over winter. The bee hives will be in a fenced area to keep the bears out. Fortunately we don't have skunks to deal with around here.
This whole country around here is covered in wild flowers all spring and summer. I'm going to plant a few acres of alfalfa and clover in some meadows.
The wife would like to join a bee club but there aren't any in this area. Plus she's gone so much of the time.

Make sure that there is a path to the rear. You always approach from the rear. They stressed that last night.

 

[Arcticdude]

The wife picked up some more bee keeping stuff today; hat, veil, gloves, bee food, tools and other hive parts.
I bought some alfalfa, red and white clover and pasture mix seeds. Just got enough to seed a few acres for now. I'm planning to re-seed about 20-40 acres per year.

 

[TexasFreedom]

"bee food"???

You really only need a couple of things. Sugar. I mix 1:1 (weight or volume), some areas vary that ratio throughout the year. And pollen substitute, get the better stuff. And you can do something like "bee health" from Mann Lake as an all-around enhancement. But that's about it.

Robin, congrats on getting your girls. Do you have an in-hive frame feeder? Did you get a package or an intact hive? How many frames in the hive? And how many hives? BK is all about the details...

I would be concerned about the source of the bees. If that BK had high losses, they aren't doing something right and it may be the genetics of the bees. I would get bees from a local source, bees that do well in your climate/conditions. Not everyone can be perfect, I'll brag that I've had zero winter losses the past 2 years. But if they're having 40+% losses, that's horrible (and unfortunately the national average).

 

[Robinjopo1]

Huge losses in Tennessee last Winter. The Spring is not off to a good start either. Cold, rain and maybe more snow is really messing with the blooms and pollen. I hope my first try isn't a bust so my husband doesn't complain about the money.

 

[Robinjopo1]

"bee food"???

You really only need a couple of things. Sugar. I mix 1:1 (weight or volume), some areas vary that ratio throughout the year. And pollen substitute, get the better stuff. And you can do something like "bee health" from Mann Lake as an all-around enhancement. But that's about it.

Robin, congrats on getting your girls. Do you have an in-hive frame feeder? Did you get a package or an intact hive? How many frames in the hive? And how many hives? BK is all about the details...

I would be concerned about the source of the bees. If that BK had high losses, they aren't doing something right and it may be the genetics of the bees. I would get bees from a local source, bees that do well in your climate/conditions. Not everyone can be perfect, I'll brag that I've had zero winter losses the past 2 years. But if they're having 40+% losses, that's horrible (and unfortunately the national average).

TF, yes I get mine on the 15th. I am getting 2 nucs of local Italians. My mentor doesn't even wear gloves with them so hopefully they are pretty tame. I will be wearing a veil and gloves for sure. I don' have the suit, but will have on a couple of layers of loose clothing.

I have two hives with an extra deep and a super for each. One has screened bottom, the other wood. Not sure if I will like the screened one.

I have one feeder and need to go get another. I know all you have to do is drill your own holes, but I'm not sure what size holes to make.

Do you spray your bees to make them complacent before transferring them? I've read both ways. I think in ill the first time just to make it as easy a possible.

On the 15th the weather isn' supposed to be great so I may have to wait to transfer them. I am pretty nervous.

Oh, mine are 10 frame. My mentor did not have heavy losses, it is the entire area that they are basing the reports. He said he thought many of the losses were owner error.

 

[TexasFreedom]

Robin,
OK, good details.
So a 'nuc' is typically 3-4 frames. A 'nuc' box is 1/2 size, or 5 frames.

For doing the transfer, here's a suggestion. I'm assuming your source has them in 5-frame nucs, you take those & put them into your 10 frame deep and return the nuc to him? Why not take your hive boxes to him and ask him to transfer them? You can watch & learn & not get nervous? Then when you take them home, they're already in their new hive bodies. Most guys are fine with that, in fact some like it because they 'keep' the 3-4 frames they remove from your boxes. He may want the boxes a few days earlier, call & ask. And if you have frame feeders, have those already inside, just top them off when he puts the bees in there.

I'm not sure which type of feeder you're talking about... 'drilling holes'? Is it basically a mason jar? I'm talking about something like:
https://www.mannlakeltd.com/9-1-8-pro-feeder-2-wide-1-gallon-with-cap-ladder

They have them for deeps or mediums or 1 frame vs 2 frame. 1 gallon is a good size. I don't like entrance feeders because they often lead to robbing.

Oh, and look into pollen paddies. If weather is poor, pollen is critical for them raising brood (babies).

 

[Robinjopo1]

I'm talking just taking a canning lid and making my own feeder by making the holes myself instead of buying. One of my kits came with an outside feeder, but I'm going to put it inside.

My mentor lives about 15 miles away so he's close if I have questions.

I was going to ask him to bring them here, but inthink I will try it myself. I'm afraid to take my box to him because with my luck, I'll wreck and have bees everywhere.

Tractor Supply has a nice selection of suppliesnif I need something last minute.

 

[TexasFreedom]

Robin,
Good idea, if he'll bring them over & transfer the frames, all the easier.

You mean not 'outside feeder' but an entrance feeder? Basically you stick it into the opening and a mason jar sits upside down on it? BTW, careful poking holes. You want really small holes. Really small otherwise it leaks everywhere. You can also look into a quail feeder. Uses same mason jar but has a trough around it... put a piece of rope in the trough so the bees don't drown. Works great, and only a couple bucks at TSC. BTW, putting either of these inside the hive, don't leave them too many days. Otherwise the bees might start building comb from your inner cover (talk to your mentor, he'll give you other options or timing thoughts).

BTW, Tractor Supply (TSC) has a horrible beekeeping supply area. You just don't know enough yet to realize it! I'd recommend avoiding them for now, not sure their quality is more than a one-time-use product. I like Mann Lake, but there are other good sources.

What's wrong with bees loose inside the vehicle? I do it all the time, I just wear my bee suit when driving... (sounds funny but it is actually true).

 

[Robinjopo1]

Robin,
Good idea, if he'll bring them over & transfer the frames, all the easier.

You mean not 'outside feeder' but an entrance feeder? Basically you stick it into the opening and a mason jar sits upside down on it? BTW, careful poking holes. You want really small holes. Really small otherwise it leaks everywhere. You can also look into a quail feeder. Uses same mason jar but has a trough around it... put a piece of rope in the trough so the bees don't drown. Works great, and only a couple bucks at TSC. BTW, putting either of these inside the hive, don't leave them too many days. Otherwise the bees might start building comb from your inner cover (talk to your mentor, he'll give you other options or timing thoughts).

BTW, Tractor Supply (TSC) has a horrible beekeeping supply area. You just don't know enough yet to realize it! I'd recommend avoiding them for now, not sure their quality is more than a one-time-use product. I like Mann Lake, but there are other good sources.

What's wrong with bees loose inside the vehicle? I do it all the time, I just wear my bee suit when driving... (sounds funny but it is actually true).

Im ust meant if I have a problem and need something immediately, I can run to TSC and get it. Such as smoker, tool hive, etc. The brand they sell, is the brand sold at many other outlets.

I didn't get any of my stuff there, but if I had something break, I would go there.

Yes, my feeder is made for outside the hive, but my mentor said don't because it welcomes robbers. It came with the complete kit. The other hive was purchased separately and didn't have the accessories such as another feeder. I agree the holes are tiny. I saw a video and they quoted the size of the drill bit needed, but I'll just run to TSC and get another one. They gave away a 4 hole feeder the other night at the meeting, but I didn't win.

My son will be with me and I'm afraid he would be kind of scared if one started dive bombing him. He's usually cool about wasps and bees in the pool, but don't know about in the car

 

[Squirtgunsquirter]

Bee thread a terrific thread. Thanks for posting this stuff guys and gals.

 

[Arcticdude]

"bee food"???

You really only need a couple of things. Sugar. I mix 1:1 (weight or volume), some areas vary that ratio throughout the year. And pollen substitute, get the better stuff. And you can do something like "bee health" from Mann Lake as an all-around enhancement. But that's about it.

Robin, congrats on getting your girls. Do you have an in-hive frame feeder? Did you get a package or an intact hive? How many frames in the hive? And how many hives? BK is all about the details...

I would be concerned about the source of the bees. If that BK had high losses, they aren't doing something right and it may be the genetics of the bees. I would get bees from a local source, bees that do well in your climate/conditions. Not everyone can be perfect, I'll brag that I've had zero winter losses the past 2 years. But if they're having 40+% losses, that's horrible (and unfortunately the national average).

We got an in frame feeder with the hive for mixing sugar water. What I was calling "bee food" is a pollen substitute that looks and feels like a sticky slab of taffy. It's supposed to go on top of the frames between the two boxes.

 

[TexasFreedom]

AD,
Yup, that's called a 'pollen patty'. Don't put in too much. I'd start with a chunk maybe the size of a brownie (single serving!, maybe 2"x2"). The reason is that if the bees don't munch on it, patties are really bad for attracting small hive beetles (SHB), and they can devastate a colony. If they tear it up, add more. Once natural pollen is available, they will completely ignore it & back to the SHB problem. If they don't start eating it within a couple of weeks, take it out.

For the sugar water, take an empty gallon jug that's been cleaned well. Old OJ jugs work great. It will hold about 5 lbs of sugar & 5 lbs of water. Or you can measure about 8 cups of sugar & put it in then add 8 cups of water. Don't worry about 1:1 ratio by weight vs volume, it's about the same. A 1:1 ratio is easiest. Put it in, shake it up. Every 10 minutes, give it another good shake, flip it over, let the sugar knock loose from the bottom of the gallon jug. It will dissolve without heating. When you get to 2:1 ratios, you do need to heat it to dissolve all the sugar, but don't get it too hot as that chemically changes the sugar molecules. Oh, and note that when you put sugar water in a hive, other bees may want to come steal it. You might need to reduce the entrance size so they can more easily defend it from robbers. And don't let sugar water sit too long, it will go back in a matter of weeks. Many people say give them a quart a day. I've seen one colony suck down a gallon a day, so it varies.

 

[DrHenley]

LOL, after listening to all the stuff you need to do for the bees, the thought popped into my head "How on earth do bees survive in the wild?"

 

[TexasFreedom]

Doc,

You are 100% correct. And it's all our fault. We force bees to split when we want (not them). We put queens with bees that aren't her colony. We move them around the country & make the live where we want them. It all causes stress. When bees live in places of their choice, moving when they want to, their success rate is far greater. And we want gentle, sweet bees.

So when we force all these things, something has to give.

 

[Proud Prepper]

Doc,

You are 100% correct. And it's all our fault. We force bees to split when we want (not them). We put queens with bees that aren't her colony. We move them around the country & make the live where we want them. It all causes stress. When bees live in places of their choice, moving when they want to, their success rate is far greater. And we want gentle, sweet bees.

So when we force all these things, something has to give.

So maybe the problem with the lower population of bees is the bee keepers. I would want a more natural approach to keeping bees.

 

[DrHenley]

That's my thinking Rellgar. I have toyed with the idea of setting up a hive near a stand of tupelo gum on our place in the Delta. When the clover blooms in the food plots, they are covered with bees. Don't know where they are coming from, but they are there somewhere. If I could get them to move into a hive on their own, in their natural habitat, then maybe they won't need all the TLC, which is important because I won't be there most of the time to baby them.

 

[TexasFreedom]

So maybe the problem with the lower population of bees is the bee keepers. I would want a more natural approach to keeping bees.

I thin that's exactly what's happening. But to pollinate crops, bees have to be moved over and over. But I think the bigger deal is that BK want to keep gentle bees. They are so much easier to work, you could work 2 or 3 times the hives if they are gentle. And they want to replace their queen every year to prevent swarming. That means queen production is massively expanded and at $30 a queen, the queen-makers don't have the time or resources to produce the quality queens. Then they compensate by dumping chemicals into the hives to fight the battles the bees aren't winning, and those chemicals cause even more issues.

Doc, go for it! Now putting out an empty hive & getting bees to move in is fairly unlikely, but go buy a couple of colonies to get started. FIRST, join a local bee club and get a mentor. Learn about the bees. But once you've started having bees, it'll be more fun than shooting liberals in a barrel!

 

[DrHenley]

Don't they have Bee Attractants that can lure bees to a hive?