underground bunker

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Thinking of burying a conex/seabox as a bunker. Anyone with experience with this. Is a sealant needed, covering for corrosion control. for lack of a better phrase french drains around it. Best depth, multiple entrances or usefull info.
 

old_anorak

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Make sure you reinforce the roof and walls, they'll cave in otherwise. I'd seal it just to be on the safe side.
 

HarrySachs

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Some of us at the moment cant afford "bomb shelters" so we
should have more threads on fortifying our current locations.
I plan on buggin in, so im working on fortifying my current location
 

shewolf

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Our bunker is a completely water tight 30' boat, we have attached a ventilation system,which also serves
as a escape hatch,in the rear, a main hatch toward the front both with vented filters (both made of steel)
Its completly reinforced inside, with beams,fiberglass & epoxy resin and boat paint. 4 bunks, & master bedroom, alot of storage areas.
With a center lounge area. We buried it 5' underground and the upper part mounded over, we had to do this due to the water
table being so high in Fla. It looks like a above ground drainfeild.
Oh the back vent can be used as a cooking area, and is designed so that
If a intruder decided to pour something into it, which would be very difficult considering the designed of it, but if they succeeded at the bottom of the shaft is a holding area, where it has at neck comming off if it

comeing thru the transom, with a steel door we can shut, for blowback. If they ever get that close.
Both have security locks.
It has 120 volt system, with breaker box, and 6 batterys, with converters, have 120volt lights, and 8, 12 volt.
Microwave, small refrigerator, cook stove.
Working on solar powered battery charger.
We are working on a concrete building that will be accessed underground from the bunker, which will have the kitchen
facilities, and bathroom with water, have everything but the building built.
2 gens, one will be in a Faraday box.
We have a 4000 gal water tank (stainless) mounted on a trailer,400 gal holding
tank attached to the house gutter capture system. & our well.
Presently getting food to store in bunker. And have just started a garden. We are talking about the idea of
Getting a few chicks, & rabbits,
Plus we have multiple security systems in place.
Surprising we did not hit water when we dug the hole :)
 

shewolf

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We were lucky to have the room for it
 

WilliamAshley

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Our bunker is a completely water tight 30' boat, we have attached a ventilation system,which also serves
as a escape hatch,in the rear, a main hatch toward the front both with vented filters (both made of steel)
Its completly reinforced inside, with beams,fiberglass & epoxy resin and boat paint. 4 bunks, & master bedroom, alot of storage areas.
With a center lounge area. We buried it 5' underground and the upper part mounded over, we had to do this due to the water
table being so high in Fla. It looks like a above ground drainfeild.
Oh the back vent can be used as a cooking area, and is designed so that
If a intruder decided to pour something into it, which would be very difficult considering the designed of it, but if they succeeded at the bottom of the shaft is a holding area, where it has at neck comming off if it

comeing thru the transom, with a steel door we can shut, for blowback. If they ever get that close.
Both have security locks.
It has 120 volt system, with breaker box, and 6 batterys, with converters, have 120volt lights, and 8, 12 volt.
Microwave, small refrigerator, cook stove.
Working on solar powered battery charger.
We are working on a concrete building that will be accessed underground from the bunker, which will have the kitchen
facilities, and bathroom with water, have everything but the building built.
2 gens, one will be in a Faraday box.
We have a 4000 gal water tank (stainless) mounted on a trailer,400 gal holding
tank attached to the house gutter capture system. & our well.
Presently getting food to store in bunker. And have just started a garden. We are talking about the idea of
Getting a few chicks, & rabbits,
Plus we have multiple security systems in place.
Surprising we did not hit water when we dug the hole :)


very cool.

I want to put an old terry taurus trailer into my basement, and turn my small little house into a green house, aquaponics place and convert my garage into a stable and my shed into a chicken coop.

My bomb shelter is going to be an old abandoned storm drain system that runs under my basement,.. if i can get the bilge/sump stuff sorted out. I also want to do some tunneling.. legality of course is another matter... lol
 

shewolf

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Update- ceiling caved in,completly filled in with dirt and water:( were done, cant afford to do it again.
.
 
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Man that is horrible. Sorry to hear that. I know what that feels like.
The thing about going underground is that not every structure will work. As much as it goes against my DIY mentality I felt the need to have plans drawn up by a structural engineer because after doing the math I knew how easy it would be to make a simple but catastrophic miscalculation.
I just want to keep someone from getting killed. Dirt weighs approx 78 pounds per cubic foot. A 15 x 30 bunker buried 10 feet deep is 4500 cubic feet of dirt weighing in at 351,000 pounds. Had I have gone with my original idea I would have made my grave. People just be careful out there.
 

WilliamAshley

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maybe you can still salvage it if it is only the roof... perhaps try using a multiple level partial trench, by mounting dirt and sand around it rather than ontop of it.

I would geuss you could not go as deep by putting a metal barrier overtop, which could also perhaps be used as structural support, or even, "wire mesh" or just leave "trenches". I was looking at the "how to survive nuclear war" pdf https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CDMQFjAA&url=http://www.nukepills.com/docs/nuclear_war_survival_skills.pdf&ei=bUtZUcEyx9bRAYmigKgH&usg=AFQjCNHGy_wTqWGB9TLmGdz0EAZdWHT2gg&bvm=bv.44442042,d.dmQ

apparently one of the methods will take out 99% of gamma rays is using a trench, then putting logs overtop the trench, I suspect the logs could further handle more sand ontop of them, then you can also lump pies of dirt on either side of the trench but back far enough to remove cave in risk, or sand bags. to create a pillbox or sand bags ontop.. picture coming soon.




apparently even a trench system will protect against 99% of gamma rays, you can also create "layers of dirt" by making wood layers with logs even if not just the top layer. you can also build "above ground and use metal barriers instead of sand.

You don't need to use sandbags but could use mounds of dirt instead but I find sandbags if covered in a little bit of soil will probably provide more protection from erosion over time. burrying propylene bags would proably be best, you might want to support the earth walls, if possible with metal sheeting to give some EMP resistance. I would suslect campers with metal siding as opposed to plastic would have a high emp reistance, and it would be fairly simple to ground them.


a total of 3ft barrier of earth will provide protection from 99.9% of gamma rays.

gaving a much smaller surface area and multiple levels allow you to use "weaker" support materials such as wood to hold a an amount of dirt at multiple layers, while the logs themselves woudl also provide a layer. Even small metal pipes could be used for that purpose or pvc tubes, which can both be filled with dirt AND act as a surface to support. Old car or fridge aluminum or steel frames doors etc.. could aslo be used.


you could also build an earth dome overtop with sandbags.

http://www.earthbagbuilding.com/pdf/dome.pdf

earth domes tend to be able to support a little bit of weight so filling it over with a little sand would provide I would suspect easily 3 ft of dirt between the dome the log roof and the itnermediate metal barrier.

air filtration would be another step through, but is suspect, covering the entire thing in plastic sheets and covering them in dirt except for your air intakes would probably provide a substantial amount of air protection for the structure. However not 100% also covering each layer with a plastic layer would probably create quite a bit of air protection and I suspect it would be a bit like putting a plastic bag over your head. Protecting from fallout is apparently not overly difficult. having ameans of uncloging the air filters might be required though, but in simply having something to be overtop of the "air intake such as having it under layer 1 would probably be sufficient fallout protection, having some sort of filter charcoal that can be switched out would probably be useful, and I would suspect you would need a fan on the end of the intake to suck air in, and a reverse fan on the way out. to expect bad air at the sealing, as I would suspect used up air will be hoter and rise to the top while fresh air will be lower to the ground. if the heating is kept hotter than the surface temperature which could be gauged by a surface mounted thermometer and a ground mounted thermometer..
 

rudyc

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i still dont know how 3 ft of dirt can protect us from gamma radiation? i know of lead and how the different wave lengths aren't able to bypass certain elements. but dirt? maybe the fact that it is 3 feet. i know that a lot of something can protect one from almost anything. and instead of burrying some one bunkers so deep, why not use a thin layer of lead? but lead is heavier i understand, but what about lead paint? on the outside of course, but if not lead then what about some other materials?
 
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Every barrier helps. Some more than others. If its really your biggest fear check with a professional. I've worked around radiation and radioactive materials but I'm not qualified to give a recommendation that's bulletproof when it comes to improvising an effective barrier other than the 10 ft that I've heard second hand.
 
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I do know that lead paint won't do jack though. It's the thickness of the dense material that slows the microwave radiation and filters it down to nothing. Ill see if I can find something to show what I mean.
 
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radiation exposure is controlled by time distance and shielding. time is time exposed to the source, less time less exposure. Distance the further you are away from the source the lower te dose and shielding, placeing some form of attenuating material between you and the source. if your good with math you can look at http://pbadupws.nrc.gov/docs/ML1122/ML11229A721.pdf but it can be a bit over-the-top.

one that seams a bit less in your face is http://www.nukeworker.com/study/hp/neu/Part_2_Radiation_Protection/RP-4_Radiation_Protection.pdf but kinda long
 
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