What guage are the wires going to the inverter. Maybe it's just a scale thing with the picture, but they look like about 2 AWG to me.I finally got the replacement inverter today and just got it installed.
What guage are the wires going to the inverter. Maybe it's just a scale thing with the picture, but they look like about 2 AWG to me.I finally got the replacement inverter today and just got it installed.
They are. The batteries connections are too but I doubled them As I thought they were a bit small. I used what came with the inverter but will likely run a second one on them before long too.What guage are the wires going to the inverter. Maybe it's just a scale thing with the picture, but they look like about 2 AWG to me.
According to this chart I’m good. I would Always rather go larger than the minimum size though. My saving grace here is I’m only about 2’ in wire length with stranded copper. I may double the wire later on but would need to get two more inline circuit breakers.From the sources I have you need 0 AWG for short runs on a 24 volt 4,000 watt inverter. For the very short cables between batteries you can probably get away with 2 AWG or even smaller. Resistance is proportional to length.
I have dual 2/0 (00 AWG) cables on my 6,000 watt inverter (12 volt) and 0 AWG cables on my 2000 watt inverter (12 volt). The 6,000 watt inverter has separate connectors for dual cables. One goes to one end of the battery bank and the other goes to the other end.
I’m 99% sure stranded is better for both. It has more surface area.With wiring, bigger is ALWAYS better, LOL.
Isn't stranded copper best for A/C? I always though D/C did better with solid.
We have lifts that use 24v systems and all the vehicles use stranded wires. That’s likely for shock and vibration which the solar setup isn’t prone to. I’m honestly far from anything close to an expert on DC systems and was basing this on what I’ve seen in real world applications personally. This whole solar deal is a new adventure for me. Most things in life I’ve done I dove in and figured it out as I went. Kind of a sink or swim thing. So far it’s mostly worked out well without too many costly mistakes. I’ve always said that the second project will turn out better though. Experience is a great teacher.D/C current flows through the bulk of a conductor evenly. A/C current flows mainly on the surface. So A/C cables need more surface area than D/C cables.
To visualize this phenomenon, fill a large container with water and stick your open hand in one end of the container and "push" water from one end to the other slowly. Now stick your hand in the middle of the container and try pushing water back and forth as rapidly as you can.
Which has more resistance?
Not all stranded is flexible either. We have some huge cable that’s 1” without the insulation. I can barely bend it with a large bender, and you can forget about a tight bend! Luckily we don’t deal with too much of the really large stuff.Stranded wires are more flexible. If you have an application like a stationary inverter hooked up to a battery bank, where the cable doesn't need to flex much, then you don't really need stranded. Solid is supposedly cheaper than stranded and smaller in diameter, for obvious reasons.
The more I’m learning about inverters I'm seeing that for continuous use it is best to go with the bigger ones that run on higher voltage. The smaller cheaper ones are fine for occasional use (normally, just not that one I got). I’m also learning that the ratings on amazon and eBay aren’t necessarily accurate....
I strongly recommend using the kill a watt meter for anyone considering estimating their power use as it gives you exactly what you use daily. Of course then you need to round up that number for the occasional heavy use or as you said different temperatures or seasons. I rounded up to 4 kWh. I also rounded up my battery storage by double for cloudy days. Basically never design a solar setup for the minimum to run your needs, but give a good bit of extra.
https://www.backwoodssolar.com/prod...neider-conext-4000w-24v-inverter-120v-240v-acI’m getting prices from two different solar companies for the next inverter and possibly lithium batteries. Amazon and eBay are fine for smaller inverters but I’m looking for better units for this part. Anyone know a good supplier?
With wiring, bigger is ALWAYS better, LOL.
Isn't stranded copper best for A/C? I always though D/C did better with solid.
It's really only an issue with large diameter cables. The wires in the house and the car aren't thick enough to have what is called a "skin effect" so the primary considerations are economy (solid is cheaper), durability, corrosion resistance, and flexibility without regard to whether it is AC or DC.Don't you have this backwards? You house is wired A/C and the wires in the walls are most likely solid. Generally, either 12 or 14 gauge except for some of your 220v appliances. Your car is D/C and the wires in it are all stranded.
I am not an expert, heck I would not even qualify as an amateur in electricity, so I may be wrong.
I bought all my gear through Wholesale Solar. I told them what I needed and they put together the complete package for me. I've been very happy with their service and support.I’m getting prices from two different solar companies for the next inverter and possibly lithium batteries. Amazon and eBay are fine for smaller inverters but I’m looking for better units for this part. Anyone know a good supplier?
Wow, great price on diesel!I bought all my gear through Wholesale Solar. I told them what I needed and they put together the complete package for me. I've been very happy with their service and support.
With my current setup my generator runs an average of 3.5 hours per day over a 12 month period. I don't think that's too bad, but I am planning on adding another 4-5 panels, with a tracker, and a wind generator.
Last week I ordered a 300 gallon diesel tank for the generator. It should arrive next week. Today I ordered propane ($1.42 gal) and I checked on diesel prices $1.74 delivered.
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