my knives by default

[DrHenley]

My only "fighting knife" is the Ka-Bar. The rest are just kitchen knives, skinning knives, etc. and not in any way meant to be defensive weapons.

I agree completely about the Kershaws and Gerbers, and the same could be said about MOST Ka-Bars, especially the Chinese made stainless steel Ka-Bars. The Marine Ka-Bar being the exception. But some of the US made Bucks are still pretty good - and I'm NOT talking about the ones they sell in Walmart!

Someone gave me a stainless steel Ka-Bar, model 1236 "Bowie", and it is so drastically inferior to the Marine Ka-Bar it's not even funny. It's like a $10 knife you find at a flea market - even though the MSRP is $85! At 1 inch back from the tip, the spine is 0.1" thick and the hollow ground blade is as thin as a straight razor. It has 1.4116 stainless steel which is between 440A and 440B. It doesn't even rate a spot in my knife drawer. I keep it in the tool box of my truck, but have never actually used it for anything.

 

[Roninsensei]

Ka-bar if they aren’t made in the USA can’t be trusted.

 

[Proud Prepper]

Here are 2 that I have. They are good knives and not at all expensive. I also have the 5in1 survival knife made by the same company TRS.

 

[Roninsensei]

I couldn’t find the steel type on the TSR Fang, Rellgar?

 

[Proud Prepper]

I couldn’t find the steel type on the TSR Fang, Rellgar?

7Cr17MoV high-end satin finish stainless steel

 

[Proud Prepper]

I got them for $19 each shipped or 4 for $68 includes shipping

 

[Roninsensei]

Have you found it maintains its edge? That steel can be ok if it’s heat treat is ok.

 

[Proud Prepper]

Have you found it maintains its edge? That steel can be ok if it’s heat treat is ok.

It varies, depending on what I cut. They keep an edge fairly well.

 

[Proud Prepper]

7CR17MOV is a specially modified 440A stainless steel that contains more. Vanadium than other steels. I think there rapid cooled.
They don't hold an edge or are as hard as my angelsword knife I got 30 years ago, its amazing. I don't know if that forger is even still alive. It's a High Carbon spring steel blade, hand forged.

 

[Kevin L]

If there are knife snobs....I must be a knife whore.

I have expensive, high end knives and cheap knives.

My previously mentioned dive knife was purchased in the sporting goods section of Sears about 27 years ago for about $25.00.

I've used it SCUBA diving, snorkeling, I keep it in my emergency stuff when I kayak, I've brought it backpacking, and it's always delivered the goods when I needed a knife.

I've had to replace the rubber calf straps as the originals deteriorated with time, but other than some scratches on the blade.....it's still going strong.

I'm not above scouting out Goodwill and the Salvation Army thrift stores for expensive kitchen knives being sold for a pittance, and throwing them in a tool box or a backpack.

When I was a lot younger, I experimented with putting together a shoestring budget survival kit.....and found that a good kitchen knife from Goodwill could accomplish almost as much as an expensive hunting knife, although I admit that carrying a blade without a sheath requires a bit of creativity and certian concessions.

I love my knife collection, but I'll survive with whatever I can get to when SHTF, and I'll be grateful for what I have.

I guess I'm just a heretic.

 

[Kevin L]

When I first got into prepping, I hired an ex-con who did hard time to show me different ways to make a shank.

I also--when I was in college--I hired an anthropology student to teach me how to knap and pressure flake flint and obsidian into a crude, but functional knife.

I also experimented with shaping bone into blades, and they work.....but not as efficient as a stone knife....although a bone section makes a good stabbing implement if it's sharpened with a rough stone.

 

[Kevin L]

One of my better knives that I made started with a hacksaw blade.

I hit one end with a brick to break off the end at an angle, so it resembled a crude tanto tip.

I used repeated layers of friction tape to make a grip, and I ground the edge with a grinder, which was the blunt side opposite the teeth.

I did it as an experiment, and it worked well. I used it to clean fish, whittle, and I feathered wood for tinder. I also used it working on the car when I needed to cut radiator hoses, fan belts, and to scrape off old gasket material when I put in a new valve cover gasket.

I also carried it tucked in my boot on occasion.

 

[DrHenley]

I am about to try a D2 knife. I just got in a 2"x36" sheet of D2 today. My professional knifemaking buddy doesn't like D2, he says that it you get it over 58 Rockwell, it will chip. (his knives are either Damascus or O1 at 62 or so)

But I've found a place that will cryo treat them after heat treating and they swear that the D2 will hold an edge at 58 Rockwell after cryo treating.

 

[Kevin L]

I have a rare D2 steel knife that's the jewel of my collection.

If you're familiar with the D2 steel partially serrated marine utility knife made by Ka Bar....I have a non-serrated version that was from a short run about 18 years ago.

I'll post a pic later if I figure out how to use my phone camera.

 

[Arcticdude]

When I first got into prepping, I hired an ex-con who did hard time to show me different ways to make a shank.

I also--when I was in college--I hired an anthropology student to teach me how to knap and pressure flake flint and obsidian into a crude, but functional knife.

I also experimented with shaping bone into blades, and they work.....but not as efficient as a stone knife....although a bone section makes a good stabbing implement if it's sharpened with a rough stone.

I think those are great skills to have, especially if we ever have a long term shtf event.
When I was a kid I lived in an area with a lot of obsidian around. Used to find quite a few arrowheads, scrappers, spear points and other stone tools. One day I decided that I wanted to make my own arrowheads. After a lot of trial and error (didn't have anyone to teach me) I finally got pretty good at knapping.
Not far from where I live now is an old quarry where Indians came from all around to get the raw material for making arrowheads and stone tools.
I think I'll take a hike down there soon and see what I can find. I'd like to get back in to knapping again and try making a knife with a bone or antler handle.
Thanks for the reminder.

 

[Arcticdude]

There's some knife snobs here that for some reason don't like Buck knives. I've had Buck knives since I was a kid. While I don't care much for their folding knives (one did save my life once though) I do like their fixed blade knives. My favorite knife in my collection is a Buck Akonua that my wife gave me years ago.
For pocket knives I like Case. My favorite Case pocket knife models are the Trapper and the Muskrat. I've skinned countless fur animals on the trap line with these two models.
No doubt there probably are better knives on the market, but for me Buck and Case have always preformed well. Plus they're made in the USA.
I use my knives everyday, but never abuse them.

 

[DrHenley]

No doubt there probably are better knives on the market, but for me Buck and Case have always preformed well. Plus they're made in the USA.

That's the problem, they are not all made in the USA anymore. A lot of Bucks are made in China. And the QC on some of the American made Bucks has gone downhill.
Yes, there are still a few Bucks worthy of the name, but the name has been tarnished by the cheap junk bearing the name.

 

[Arcticdude]

That's the problem, they are not all made in the USA anymore. A lot of Bucks are made in China. And the QC on some of the American made Bucks has gone downhill.
Yes, there are still a few Bucks worthy of the name, but the name has been tarnished by the cheap junk bearing the name.

That I do agree with. Buck does have a cheap line of junk. All of the Buck knives that I have are made in the US. And most are in the $200 range.

 

[KateMTx]

That I do agree with. Buck does have a cheap line of junk. All of the Buck knives that I have are made in the US. And most are in the $200 range.

I only buy American Bucks but I do have several of them, both folding and fixed blade. They've all held up pretty well to what I need them for and keep a decent edge. They aren't the most expensive ones either, with my budget being what it is.

 

[bigpaul]

there is that bias again, if it aint made in the good old USA its rubbish.
well I can tell you it isn't true, I have many knives and some from all over the world and none has failed me yet.(the Germans make some good blades, also good bladed tools too).
I have buck STYLE lock knives that aren't buck at all, they are unbranded, they were taken off airline customers when they brought in the new rules about having nothing sharp on the plane, I got them off a guy who got the contract to dispose of these knives and I got them cheap and I do mean CHEAP, and they work perfectly.