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I think I am going to try the kid's idea in the cabin since it is a small space. Very awesome!

Thanks for finding and posting these! Merry Christmas to all!

I was so impressed, I bought a 6'x6' carbon felt blanket today. Let me know what you come up with for the glass on the .50 box. I want to do that too, except I will use the carbon felt for the wick. Should be a major improvement. The kid has a bunch of videos on generating power using magnets. I wonder if I can duplicate one that would run the small fan.
 
I was so impressed, I bought a 6'x6' carbon felt blanket today. Let me know what you come up with for the glass on the .50 box. I want to do that too, except I will use the carbon felt for the wick. Should be a major improvement. The kid has a bunch of videos on generating power using magnets. I wonder if I can duplicate one that would run the small fan.

I was wondering if the glass was a necessary component or simply for aesthetics? And I was thinking similarly on the wick.

For the glass, old fireplace doors from a place like Habitat for Humanity, Goodwill or some other salvage place was one idea...

My middle son's FIL is a machinist I'll have to ask him a couple of questions.

It is kids with minds like that one, which give me hope for the future.
 
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I was wondering if the glass was a necessary component or simply for aesthetics? And I was thinking similarly on the wick.

For the glass, old fireplace doors from a place like Habitat for Humanity, Goodwill or some other salvage place was one idea...

My middle son's FIL is a machinist I'll have to ask him a couple of questions.

It is kids with minds like that one, which give me hope for the future.
I am not convinced it is really glass. Glass would be extremely difficult to bore through for the screw holes. I think it may be a very high heat plastic, if that exists. If not, I will get some glass, and fabricate some small metal plates that will hold the glass down around the edges.
 
@Arcticdude

I'll try re-posting and see if you can open it now? This is the kid we are talking about.


It just says Web page not available. I might go up the hill later and see if I can get a better connection. Or when we go to town on Wednesday.
 
I was wondering if the glass was a necessary component or simply for aesthetics? And I was thinking similarly on the wick.

For the glass, old fireplace doors from a place like Habitat for Humanity, Goodwill or some other salvage place was one idea...

My middle son's FIL is a machinist I'll have to ask him a couple of questions.

It is kids with minds like that one, which give me hope for the future.
The glass is not necessary, just a pretty. And sure you could change the wicks to others. You could also add an air intake control to regulate temps. Which is a very cool small space heater, bravo.
 
The glass is not necessary, just a pretty. And sure you could change the wicks to others. You could also add an air intake control to regulate temps. Which is a very cool small space heater, bravo.

YES! A damper on the intake. I was wondering about the 3D printed housing for the fan. If the box is almost 500 degrees on top, how is it not melting the plastic fan housing through conduction?
 
Seems something like this would be so much easier for the glass door.

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Write up by Evan Graham

Best Vegetable Oils for Oil Lamps​

One of the main benefits of oil lamps is their ability to burn cleanly, meaning they don’t need ventilating when used indoors. It’s important to use fuel that will burn cleanly to prevent dangerous fumes from entering the living space.

With that in mind, it’s important to note that some vegetable oils will burn better than others. Popular oils to burn in lamps include:

Olive Oil​

Olive oil is the favorite retro-fitting oil for oil lamps. It burns cleanly, is inexpensive, and produces little smoke. There’s no need to buy extra-virgin, either. Cheap, pure olive oil will do.

Peanut Oil​

Another inexpensive option, peanut oil, burns reasonably well as a fuel source. However, it can produce more smoke than olive oil.

Coconut Oil​

Coconut oil has a low smoke point of 350-degrees. While this means it isn’t the best oil for deep frying, it has more than enough tolerance as a long-lasting oil lamp fuel. Keep in mind that coconut oil has a light scent of coconut when burned.

Sunflower or Canola Oil​

Sunflower and canola oils both serve as fuel sources for oil lamps with relative success. However, both oils can produce smoke, so it’s best to burn them near a window just in case.

General Vegetable Oil​

Vegetable oil like Crisco will burn in an oil lamp and are great for a dirt-cheap fuel option. However, because most generic vegetable oil products contain a mixture of oils, smoke production will vary and definitely be more significant than olive oil.

Will Vegetable Oils Last As Long As Kerosene?​

Kerosene, paraffin, and other traditional fuel sources will last longer than vegetable oil because of their design – their only function is to burn well. Paraffin, for example, will burn the wick slower than vegetable oils, offering a longer burning duration.

Thus, when it comes to achieving the longest burn time possible, kerosene remains the recommended source. However, if you need inexpensive oil or have an emergency, vegetable oils will last for several days in a lamp.

Best Practices For Burning Vegetable Oil In Oil Lamps​

While using an oil lamp is pretty self-explanatory, there are specific practices you should follow to ensure the safe and most efficient use of the lamp.

Antique Oil Lamps​

Suppose you happen to have an antique oil lamp hanging in the cabin or decorating the house’s entryway. In that case, it’s best to treat the antique to the manufacturer’s oil of choice – usually, lamp oil, paraffin, or kerosene. Unfortunately, vegetable oils can damage antique lamps, ruining the artifact.

Wick Clumps​

Occasionally, vegetable oils like Canola oil can clog an oil lamp’s wick. Unsaturated compounds in the oil can trigger the development of a resin in the lamp. The thicker material will clog the wick and prevent the lamp from holding a flame.

If wick clumps do develop, you have a few options to fix the problem.

Option 1: If you need to avoid replacing the wick, try cleaning the wick by soaking it in rubbing alcohol to break down the compounds. Let it dry completely before returning the wick to the lamp. Additionally, swap out the resin-contaminated oil with a fresh batch.

Option 2: Replace the wick and the batch of oil in the lamp. Do not over-fill the lamp (more on oil levels below.)

Oil Levels​

Oil lamps can burn for up to 150 hours, but more oil in the lamp does not necessarily improve its function. Too-much vegetable oil can contribute to resin build-up and wick clogging. Keep your lams half-filled for optimal burning and to reduce the chance of excess smoke, resin, and clogs.

Lamp Storage​

Many oils evaporate over time, so you must keep your lamp tightly sealed to prevent loss of oil.

Additionally, you should store lamps not in use away from electrical outlets, heat sources, and out of reach of children.

Lamp Oil and Freezing Temperatures​

Many adventurers take oil lamps ice fishing or on a snowshoeing trip. While oil lamps work great in most outdoor conditions, keep in mind that lamp oil can freeze when temperatures hit 20 to 15-degrees Fahrenheit.

If lamp oil does freeze, you can thaw it over the fire and continue to use it. If the wick burns continuously, the lamp is less likely to freeze.

Conclusion​

When it comes to fueling your oil lamp for the next outdoor adventure, vegetable oil is a cost-effective and efficient solution. The wide variety of oils available provides ample selection for the lamp-loving outdoorsman.

Just keep in mind that many oils burn at different rates, and some may produce more smoke than others. When in doubt, test out your selected oil in the lamp before your next adventure. Finally, always keep a backup of kerosene in the pack.
 
That will work. It needs a handle that's insulated on it though. The air from the fan keeps the plastic cool.
I would rather weld it together, but I realize that complicates things to alot of people.

My daughter and ranch hand both weld...but, if I can get away with skipping it I would.
 
@Arcticdude

I'll try re-posting and see if you can open it now? This is the kid we are talking about.


I would think the glass is pre drilled before hardening, this is normal over here , also I would think having a door this will help the circulation inside , allowing the cold air to be drawn up instead of across the flames , with no glass, just my 2 penny worth
 

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