EMP & Lightning Protection

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grayghost668

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I don't know if this will work or not,but...........................here it is
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https://www.empshield.com/product/v...war1c4Qy528dvpBJvWYxcAKhkQDiSFskaAtjWEALw_wcB
 
Here is its method of operation (from the link)


How Does EMP Shield Work?
EMP Shield will protect all the electronics and equipment connected to your electrical system.
This is accomplished by shunting (shorting) the over voltage coming in from the grid and the induced voltage that is collected within your home.
Whether the source of electrons are from within your home or coming into your electrical system from outside the home (the grid), the Shield will see the surge and protect your electrical system. Our technology reacts in less than 1 billionth of a second. Since the shunting is completed incredibly fast, the over voltage is drained away from the equipment before the voltage can rise high enough to damage any equipment. We call this new technology SightSpeed™


Does and EMP have one pulse lasting a billionth of a second and then just go away? Or is it rather ongoing and could last many seconds (from a bomb) or days from the sun? It seems to me the danger is induction from the EMP source. Just shunting it away solves the problem for a billionth of a second but the next second the electronics and wiring you have results in induction from the EMP source.

Am I wrong?????
 
Here is its method of operation (from the link)


How Does EMP Shield Work?
EMP Shield will protect all the electronics and equipment connected to your electrical system.
This is accomplished by shunting (shorting) the over voltage coming in from the grid and the induced voltage that is collected within your home.
Whether the source of electrons are from within your home or coming into your electrical system from outside the home (the grid), the Shield will see the surge and protect your electrical system. Our technology reacts in less than 1 billionth of a second. Since the shunting is completed incredibly fast, the over voltage is drained away from the equipment before the voltage can rise high enough to damage any equipment. We call this new technology SightSpeed™


Does and EMP have one pulse lasting a billionth of a second and then just go away? Or is it rather ongoing and could last many seconds (from a bomb) or days from the sun? It seems to me the danger is induction from the EMP source. Just shunting it away solves the problem for a billionth of a second but the next second the electronics and wiring you have results in induction from the EMP source.

Am I wrong?????

These do work continuously. They draw all over current to ground in less than a half of a nano second.
 
EMP shield will protect everything plugged into the building electrical system within 250 feet of the installed device continually from EMP.

It's only a one time protection against a direct lightning strike.
 
Hi Guys,
I am an electrical engineer, and I have worked with Lightning protection. Something you must understand is that there are NO devices that eliminate lightning or EMP strikes completely. Items such as lightning protection (collector rods, wire and ground rods) can only DIVERT the voltage to ground. Other items such as described in this post are also helpful, as it helps to absorb or once again divert the strike to sophisticated electronics built within and then to ground and these have a life expectancy based on the number of strikes. At the end of the day, when it comes to lightning or EMP strikes, it can be so powerful that ....there are no absolute guarantees. But, these devices do help to a degree. Having both systems is the ideal protection. I hope this helps understand a little about lightning protection.
 
Interesting, if this box only connects to 12VDC, how will it protect your AC powered equipment? Look at the gauge of the wires coming out of that box? Do you think that box can handle any power surge with those small gauge wires? So your car stero is protected but your $1000 frig or freezer is toast? All I am saying is a sucker is born every minute!
 
Interesting, if this box only connects to 12VDC, how will it protect your AC powered equipment? Look at the gauge of the wires coming out of that box? Do you think that box can handle any power surge with those small gauge wires? So your car stero is protected but your $1000 frig or freezer is toast? All I am saying is a sucker is born every minute!

They have many different devices for DC and AC in various voltages. If a device has both DC and AC components it requires one for each.

It sends excess voltage to ground faster than it can damage the wiring or the system it protects.

If anyone wants to know more ask. If you just want to make ignorant comments. There's other threads for that.
 
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Properly set up ightning rods across the peaks of your buildings dissipate charges in the air and prevents lightning from striking in the vacinity of the lightning rods. Its not a sure thing, but I would say its 99% effective in residential settings. Having properly grounded lightning rods in place will greatly reduce the risk of a direct strike.

Stikes near your power lines and within a quarter mile of your house can still induce a high voltage on your home wiring and destroy electronics. For those weak transients, metal oxide varistors right after the devices fuse and before the rest of the circuitry will protect that circuitry, however, that varistor and fuse will need to be replaced afterwards. The varistor only conducts after a specific voltage is reached, and when it does, the self heating drives it harder into conduction and blows the fuse disconnecting everything. Its the solid-state version of a spark gap, except it will be destroyed by doing it's job. Lightning arrestors for feedlines may keep the fire out of your house, but it will not save your gear as the voltage needed to jump that gap is enough to kill your electronics anyhow.

If you want EMP protection, take batteries out and ensure no wires are hanging out of the device. After that, you don't need a faraday cage. Electronic devices are ruined by EMP due to the circuits wiring acting as an antenna and the induced current that turns on the fets in the circuit. When the batteries are in and an EMP happens, there is a chance the wrong fets turn on at the same time others are turned on (like in a class B push pull amplifier or CMOS switch) making a direct short to ground burning up those components. Without long wires acting as antennas, the induced voltages will not be enough to punch through oxide layers (destroying mosfets) and since the battery is removed, the induced voltages that can turn the devices on, will not be getting hot. Just take the batteries out and disconnect any wires hanging out of it. No need for garbage cans and fancy faraday cages;.
 
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Properly set up ightning rods across the peaks of your buildings dissipate charges in the air and prevents lightning from striking in the vacinity of the lightning rods. Its not a sure thing, but I would say its 99% effective in residential settings. Having properly grounded lightning rods in place will greatly reduce the risk of a direct strike.

Stikes near your power lines and within a quarter mile of your house can still induce a high voltage on your home wiring and destroy electronics. For those weak transients, metal oxide varistors right after the devices fuse and before the rest of the circuitry will protect that circuitry, however, that varistor and fuse will need to be replaced afterwards. The varistor only conducts after a specific voltage is reached, and when it does, the self heating drives it harder into conduction and blows the fuse disconnecting everything. Its the solid-state version of a spark gap, except it will be destroyed by doing it's job. Lightning arrestors for feedlines may keep the fire out of your house, but it will not save your gear as the voltage needed to jump that gap is enough to kill your electronics anyhow.

If you want EMP protection, take batteries out and ensure no wires are hanging out of the device. After that, you don't need a faraday cage. Electronic devices are ruined by EMP due to the circuits wiring acting as an antenna and the induced current that turns on the fets in the circuit. When the batteries are in and an EMP happens, there is a chance the wrong fets turn on at the same time others are turned on (like in a class B push pull amplifier or CMOS switch) making a direct short to ground burning up those components. Without long wires acting as antennas, the induced voltages will not be enough to punch through oxide layers (destroying mosfets) and since the battery is removed, the induced voltages that can turn the devices on, will not be getting hot. Just take the batteries out and disconnect any wires hanging out of it. No need for garbage cans and fancy faraday cages;.

Goid post. Correct for anything thats not being used. For electronics and to protect electrical equipment and your buildings wiring you need a device that protects your electrical system and everything thats plugged into it. For this, something like a grounding EMP shield is needed.
 
Well, you're living far away enough from everything @Arcticdude
But for us who are closer to the civilisation and other peoples it looks lil bit different. I won't have the only lightened house in the village...

Correct thread finally.
You have a good point there MD. I guess if you're on the power grid you may not have many options when the lights go out.
 
My single solar cell will charge my heavy batteries well enough to get my 220V inverter running and charge or power all my small (comfort) machines to make my life easier than a caveman. All my batteries, flashlights, headlamps, LED lighting and other small "things" will run off 12V and do more than I need. Keep it small and simple works for this poor old man, but the rest of the world has other answers too.
 
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You have a good point there MD. I guess if you're on the power grid you may not have many options when the lights go out.
Yes, my options are limited, i'm on rental and very close to the village. Good for business and cheap, but not so good for preppers 😂.
But this was and is the reason why i decided to prepare for an "stoneage scenario" without electric power.
Alternative heating and cooking runs by wood, gas, fuel and petroleum.
Mobile solarpanels for small electronic devices and radio are aviable and working.
Food anyway.
If we're offgrid for longer i'm gone, i'm too old to fight with the mob.
 

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