Bows, Arrows, and Crossbows

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CharlesSibley

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Ok so I know nothing of any of these and am looking for some advice on any of these. How do you decide which type of bow is best for you. What is draw length? HELP!!!!
 
Here's some help:

Draw Length is the distance from the nock point to the throat of the grip plus 1 3/4". Typically, this length will also be about the same length of arrow needed by the compound archer.

To measure your draw length, stand with your back to a wall stretching your arms out against the wall. Measure the distance from the end of your middle finger to the end of your other middle finger, basically the length of both arms, hands and chest. This measurement, minus 15 then divided by 2, is your draw length.

Resist the temptation to make your draw length longer than it should be, as this will affect your accuracy.

Your wingspan typically is the same as your height in inches. So your height in inches minus 15 and then divided by 2 will be your draw length, or at least a very good starting point. Just use our handy dandy draw length calculator at the top of this page.

http://www.yeoldearcheryshoppe.com/drawlength.php

Draw weight though, is the other big thing to consider....

Draw Weight is the peak amount of weight an archer will pull while drawing the bow. With a traditional bow, the draw weight continues to increase as the bow is drawn. A compound bow will increase to the peak weight, and then drop in weight to the holding weight. The holding weight is typically 20-30% of the peak weight. So a 60# compound bow will only hit 60# for period in the draw cycle, and then will drop down to perhaps a 15# holding weight at anchor. This allows the archer to hold on target much longer than a traditional bow, whose archer would be holding the full 60#s. High performance bows will stay at this peak weight longer during the draw cycle thus storing more energy but typically creating a harsher draw cycle.

Compound bows are adjustable over a 10 to 15 # range. The weight listed is with the limbs bottomed out, or at the maximum peak weight. So a bow listed at 70#'s is adjustable from 60-70#, and sometimes 55-70#.

A new archer will be able to pull about 10 pounds more weight with a few weeks of regular practice as previously little used muscles gain strength.

Small child 50-70 lbs 10-15 lbs
Child 70-100 lbs 15-25 lbs
Most women, boys from 100 - 130 lbs 30-40 lbs
Women above average strength; youth boys 130 - 150 lbs 40-50 lbs
Most men 150-180 lbs 55-65 lbs
Muscular young men and larger men 180 lbs and up 60-70 lbs

Or, you could go the easier route and get a Crossbow. In either case, it is really important to practice (way more than firearms), because you have to consider wind and gravity even more than shooting a firearm.

My advice is to go to a local archery range, and try out different ones, to get a feel for what will work for you. Same advice as a firearm really.
 
I like compound and recurve bows . I keep it simple with full length arrows no over draw . For myself I can shoot my compound with just the front site and no rear peep always use the same hold and locking posistion and my recurve no sites at all kind of traditional . I don't make this a expensive sport . I use a Bear White tail 2 compound and vintage Ben Pearson recurve . Just a off the shelf compound bow , 31" arrows , pack of broad heads , pack of field tips and a good archery target and your good to go . I shoot a 60 lb pull you have to make that choice as to what you want to pull . A 45lb will shoot through a deer . Cross bows are something I may look into one day .
 
Thank yall for all your help. I really like what you both have told me. Thank you both again yall have taught me so much.
 
Personally I rely on my bow should something go south (due to gun restrictions). I use a takedown bow similar to the go primal bows and I love it. Very easy to find replacement parts for it here and the cost isn't bad. I think i've spent about 100 bucks on it and would trust my life with if. It isn't the greatest bow out there, not even close. I've owned it for about 4 years now and it still fires like it was just put together for the first time.

On to my advice: crossbows are easy for everyone to fire. A bow takes a large amount of dedication. Even having owned mine for so long I'm not the greatest of shots. Finding the right bow for me was to go and try out a few different bows and see which one I liked the most. If i did it again I would look into the go primal bows or bows at your local archery range. The reason for the latter is because they will typically carry parts for it.
 
I whole heartedly recommend this bow!! It is low tech so less to go wrong with it and it folds down to 2 ft to fit in any pack....

Yep, it's on my wishlist for X-Mas already! (along with a bunch of arrows, as it has been years since I've used a bow with any regularity). I'm more of a shooter, but would like to pick it up again.
 
I have had a crossbow for a while now, and its really easy to learn to get accurate with it as it's almost like shooting a gun. I just bought a compound bow and hope to start practicing with it this comming weekend. From what I have heard and remember from years ago it's the kind of thing you need to practice alot with to be really good. By the end of the day you get pretty good, but give it a couple weeks off and you need practice again. I got the compound for the reduced strain once you have it pulled back, but think I may get a recurve eventually since it's easily resturng by a novice. I'll let you know how the first practice goes with the compound.
 
The Barnett wildcat c-5 extreme is probably one of the best crossbow deals out there. At 400 bucks, it's a very solid bow. I hit just above a 1.5 inch strip of tape at 35 yards after 1 or 2 shots of figuring out arrow drop, so accuracy is no problem. Mine had the crank on it which makes it ridiculously easy to load, but it does have the foot stirrup if you prefer bein all manly or as an alternative to the crank. Overall, it's maybe not the best bow, but for the price, I'd say it's solid.
 
Cos access to fire arms is a real pain in the ### over here I and my family started practising with all three bows, Compound, Recurve and Crossbow, it makes sense to be familiar with all three just as my colonial cousins in the US practice with rifle, shotgun and pistol, you don't have to choose just one type. We have crossbows as heavy duty kit, lightweight disposable compounds for EDC security and we have take down recurves for hunting after TSHTF ( Bow hunting is illegal in the UK).

Our compounds are only one meter long and strung with nylon coated steel wire, they can and are left strung, ready to hand to act as home security tools, they only cost £44 each so we can afford to buy a few at a time and treat them as disposable tools. We like the short length as it means they are easy to use indoors or to fire from vehicles. Our Recurves are 35# take down recurve bows that are under 5ft 6 long, we keep them with our GHBs
 
I have a small Hicory tree (about 10" diamiter) that is growing in a place I don't want it . I'm going to cut it this winter when the sap is down and try to make a bow using about 1/3 heart wood and 2/3 sap wood . I will have to make a short bow because I'm not spending the time on it to make a long bow .
 
I have a compound bow and a crossbow. I like the crossbow better. My two daughters , one has a long bow and the other one has a recurve. With the primitive bows little if no maintenance- unlike some compound bows.
 
I recently practiced with the new compound bow I got. Accuracy got reasonable after about 10 to 15 shots, but I forgot how numb and sore your fingers can get! My advice, wear a glove! After just a few minutes I hurt pretty bad. The glove made it a lot better. I've seen the assists for sale, some are even trigger release. If I was going to use this thing a lot I might consider it.
 
Shoot a little once or twice a week instead of one long practice session and you stay built up to it . I use a glove and some times bare fingers , I dont want to get use to a triger releace I try to keep archery simple no gadgets .
 
Shoot a little once or twice a week instead of one long practice session and you stay built up to it . I use a glove and some times bare fingers , I dont want to get use to a triger releace I try to keep archery simple no gadgets .
Good advice! I don't practice much, and really prefer guns, but I think the bows are a good backup. After all, prepping is about having backups for your backups. A good leather glove really does make it easier on the finger tips.
 
got a pistol crossbow, do know it's more of a toy,but silent,which might be handy sometimes ;)
 
got a pistol crossbow, do know it's more of a toy,but silent,which might be handy sometimes ;)

Ah Jonnte dear chap, What type of bolt have you got for your pistol bow? there are two types

(A) Alloy shaft full length with glued on fletches and black inserted nocking point
and
(B) Half alloy shaft half black plastic with moulded on integral fletches.

You want (A) you then pry out carefully the nocking point and fill the hollow centre with dry sand, then refit the nocking point. Now your 80 pound draw bolt will do a much better job.

If you have not got access to (A) tell me and I will send you some from my cache.
 
got the A, have something to do next weekend :) no time to be lazy, thanks MY FRIEND,thought they were kinda light,but didn't know what to with them before this.

and I have that fine sand too..did you glue the nocking point back with yours?
 
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