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Robin, don't put the Swiffer pad on the bottom board, put it between hive bodies. Nowhere to underneath.

AD, make a yellow jacket trap. I've heard from guys across the country, yellow jackets have been a real problem everywhere. But traps work great & don't catch bees. Search youtube. I've seen traps made from 2 liter soda bottles. I've seen traps made from 15 gallon totes. And both have filled up.

I actually pitty folks who don't have Africanized bees. My girls have zero problems with hive beetles and zero problems with yellow jackets. Attack. Mob. Kill. It's a great strategy. They only wished it'd work on me, but they keep trying. But strong hives solve many, many problems.
Tex, I've had 10 yellow jacket traps out all summer. Some of these traps would fill up in one a day. The dam yellow jackets were extremely aggressive this year too. The wife and I were stung several times. Last night I climbed in to bed and got stung. A YJ was under the covers. It's cold enough now the the 'jackets are gone.
 
Things are 'relative'. Not only the general temperament of your hive but weather and conditions. Here's the basic thing: you have 30,000 sisters all living together. Do you think there will be good days and bad? They don't like bad weather, cloudy, cold, dearths (no pollen/nectar available). One day you can open your hive in shorts with no issue. Another day you can be 10 ft away & get stung.

For mowers and tillers, remember that bees are deaf but they HATE vibration. I've gotten within 20 ft of my hives without ticking them off. Remember bees don't fly after dark, so that's a good time to mow/weed wack closer. Not at dusk (I made that mistake once), I mean dark & not with lots of lights. I also know people who can mow within feet of their hive without issue. Just make sure the outgoing grass/exhaust does not blow toward the hive... they really hate that. And don't touch/knock the hive or stand, that's vibration. In my case I keep my bees maybe 700 ft from my house, but I have the land.

You don't 'acclimate' a queen, at least not 10 vs 8 frame. If you have a small colony, you can start with a nuc (5 frame). But that's more for guys doing this on a larger scale. Usually your 'space' will mean stacking more boxes vertically. So you start with 8 frames in 1 body, when that is 80% full you put another 8 frame body on top of it. Nobody 'starts' with an 8 frame the 'expands' to the 10 frame. Get one or the other, they are a fixed size. As I said, I think you'd like the 8 frame more. To see how the 3 sellers' bees are: go to their place and watch them work their hives. You'll see quickly how gentle they are.

Another key thing: ask each what do they do to treat their hives. There are 2 main issues: SHB (small hive beetle) and varroa mite. I don't treat, that's the perfect option (my bees are extremely hardy). SHB isn't that big an issue, easy to 'treat' with a trap that isn't a chemical issue. Varroa is the issue. Some people treat regularly with some nasty chemicals. You can ask this by phone of each of the guys. You'll want 2 things: gentleness and hardiness.

Some bees have a natural ability to control varroa/SHB. They call it 'cleaner' bees, they 'clean' each other and the hive. Some go too far: bees will actually drag out their baby larvae in cleaning the hive (yup, exactly the 'toss out the baby with the bathwater'). People that treat their bees with chemicals & such are actually making their bees weaker as well as their SHB/varroa stronger.
I learned my lesson by the hornets in the apple trees, don't pick in day time, not at dusk or dawn but at night only(this is late in the season when the apples are really sweet). One came at me, I hit him with my hand as he was trying to sting. Saw a few minutes later he just got me a couple of little times, of course I ran to the barn. LOL
 
Tex the speaker at this months meeting makes hives. He takes the general design from a Lang or Top Bar etc and adjusts them to his specifications. He has a bad back so he makes a COFFIN type that isn't too tall and can even be used by those in wheelchairs. He makes the frames and all. With or without foundation. He also makes special adaptions for glass feeders and the oxi heater thingy. It's was kind of cool. He has used the swiffer pads for beetles and was the one that said not to leave them in very long.
 
Enjoying all your discussions, am learning more and more, even though I don't have bees, Wonder how much an extractor is worth?
They have different sizes based on how any frames can fit at one time. Our club rents theirs to membera for $20 per day and $20 refunded if you return it nuc e and clean.
 
I've seen extractors for $50 and $5000. From 2 frame hand crank to 70 frame motorized. Our club lets you borrow it with a deposit and you get it back if it's returned clean.

People are making all kinds of modifications to top bar & langs. I'm not a fan, I'll keep my langs plain and the same as the past century.
 
I'll stick to my Langs too. Maybe when they get too heavy, go to an 8 instead of 10.

In have 2 nucs, I bottom deep and 5 med deeps to start next year. My mentor says it doesn't get cold enough here to wrap in tar paper. (That was my plan) so I'm really not sure what I need to do for winter prep. So far, not much.
 
Open beehive
https://www.foxnews.com/science/rare-open-beehive-in-virginia-stuns-wildlife-expert
beehive.jpg
 
Open-air hives are quite common here. I've seen a 100k+ bee colony completely outside. It doesn't really slow them down. But then we might get a day or two per year of freezing temperatures.

But I've seen colonies in all sorts of places. Inside a tire. Under a street sign. Plenty of them under a soffit. Often a colony get 'stuck' in open-air because they can't agree on a new location, they start building wax, the queen starts laying, and so they stay. It takes a kind BK to go get them & put them in a proper home.
 
I went to check the hives and was trying to pry open the deep in the middle. The hive started shifting on the cinder blocks and I almost freaked. I knew it was going to topple over and 40,000 bees were going to be really pissed.

It was so heavy, but I guess my adrenaline kicked in and I scooted the hive back up onto the blocks.

I'm going to buy some rebar and put two on each side so that the hives can't overturn. I'll leave the back and front open so I can remove the deeps from that angle. It is going to make it harder, but safer.
 
I went to check the hives and was trying to pry open the deep in the middle. The hive started shifting on the cinder blocks and I almost freaked. I knew it was going to topple over and 40,000 bees were going to be really pissed.
It was so heavy, but I guess my adrenaline kicked in and I scooted the hive back up onto the blocks.
I'm going to buy some rebar and put two on each side so that the hives can't overturn. I'll leave the back and front open so I can remove the deeps from that angle. It is going to make it harder, but safer.

40,000 angry bees? I call that Friday (or Monday, or Tuesday...)

Bad idea. You'll cause yourself more problems than help.

When you push on the hive from one side, hold it from the other with an equal and opposite force. Don't make this more complicated than it needs to be. KISS.

It sounds like your foundation is the problem. Solid, and wide enough for the hive to move a little & not fall off.
 
Robin,

Many people simply do the crush & strain method for some time. For a hive or three, or even 10, an extractor is not a necessity. It's not as fast, but it doesn't really matter. You're not doing in a production environment. But a little 2 frame extractor isn't that expensive ($100 or less?) and is a good learning tool. My biggest thing would be where to store things like this. And to a degree, it's a good learning thing to do crush & strain.
 
Robin,

Many people simply do the crush & strain method for some time. For a hive or three, or even 10, an extractor is not a necessity. It's not as fast, but it doesn't really matter. You're not doing in a production environment. But a little 2 frame extractor isn't that expensive ($100 or less?) and is a good learning tool. My biggest thing would be where to store things like this. And to a degree, it's a good learning thing to do crush & strain.

I'm just hoping mine live through the winter. I put my ear to the hive and heard the buzzing. I dread when I open and have to hunt for the queen. I'm not good at that.
 
Don't go looking for the queen. It's too cold, and what difference does it make? If she's not there, what would you do? Lift one end and make sure it feels heavy enough. If you get a warm day, give them some sugar water.
 
Don't go looking for the queen. It's too cold, and what difference does it make? If she's no

t there, what would you do? Lift one end and make sure it feels heavy enough. If you get a warm day, give them some sugar water.

I wasn't clear. I meant in the Spring. No way would I look for a queen now
 
Robin, specify you want a VENTED suit. A number of companies make them. Even in TN, it'll make a big difference. And they're not that much more, I've seen them in the $100-150 range even for good ones. Or, make the receipt is kept...
 

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